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Take the Quiz
By Paul Adams
As a transplant to San Francisco from New York, I notice one difference between the two cities the most: California chefs' total lack of sense about cultural hygiene. Here, geography and history apparently have no advice worth listening to about what goes with what, and how, foodwise. In my East Coast upbringing, there were Italian restaurants, Chinese restaurants, Jewish delis and the like; frequently next door to each other, but never actually the same establishment. Now I don't want to stir up any NY/SF bad blood, but in New York, the city that has everything, it was not possible, last I checked, to obtain a jalapeño bagel or an asiago bagel or a banana-nut bagel, except by special order through some custom fetish-bagel baker.
In the celebrated newer restaurants of New York, such as Nobu, Bouley and Mesa Grill (as well as the less celebrated and less new), the chefs are lauded for their astonishing flexibility and finesse within their particular cuisine. The food is imaginative, the dishes are clever and unanticipated, and, yes, irreverent, but it is an oddity, not the norm, to find wasabi in one's mayonnaise.
San Francisco's star chefs are paid salaries among the culinary world's highest to dream up outlandish hybridizations of, well, whatever they can. But even I can fuse dishes as eccentric as theirs. Or can I?
Here's a little quiz for you San Francisco food aficionados. Can you tell which of the following dishes have actually been prepared and served at the city's restaurants, and which are fake?
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Are you a true San Francisco food aficionado?
Answers
From the November 1997 issue of the Metropolitan.