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Bella Luna
$$. This somewhat cramped restaurant offers the city's best Bolognese, pungent and rich, and a number of other delightfully hearty dishes. 2299 Van Ness in Pacific Heights (415/674-4094). (P.A.)
$. The Mission is sprouting little new Italian restaurants at an increasing rate. Caffe Ponte Vecchio is the newest and the cheapest, and some dishes here, like the individual casserole-baked lasagna, are splendid. Mission, 1136 Valencia. (415/206-9677). (P.A.)
$$. A cozy but comfortable setting, an open kitchen and a sure but subtle hand with seasonings make for an extremely pleasing meal. Russian Hill, 1896 Hyde, (415/474-8240). (P.A.)
$$. This trattoria borrows ambiance from diner traditions, but the food can't be beat. Sit at the counter if it's crowded; try gnocchi if it's available. Pacific Heights, 2506 Fillmore, (415/346-5288) (P.A.)
$$. In a tiny space, squeezed in among dozens of Italian restaurants, this restaurant specializes. (hence the name) in baked dishes. Portions are small: Get a couple of appetizers. 519 Columbus in North Beach (415/982-1124). (P.A.)
$$. The room is tiny, and there is often only a single entree offered, but the food is delicious and the menu changes frequently. Mission, 3234 22nd St, (415/642-5044). (P.A.)
$$. Newish creative Italian, in an elegant setting. And not the only restaurant in town to be named after a characteristic poisonous food. 2101 Sutter in Pacific Heights (415/541-0795). (P.A.)
$. If you're thinking of going to Caffe Delle Stelle, go here instead. The lemon-caper chicken is highly recommended. Hayes Valley, 429 Gough, (415/626-4292). (P.A.)
$$. Not quite a neighborhood restaurant, but not in the North Beach strip, Zax rewards customers with a small but excellent menu. North Beach, 2330 Taylor, (415/563-6266). (P.A.)
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