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$ cheap     $$ moderate     $$$ pricey


French
[whitespace] Baker Street Bistro
$$. A four-dish $14.50 prix fixe meal is available, and a great a la carte dinner for two can be enjoyed for about $52 with a couple of glasses of wine. Start with escargot, then dig into rabbit in mustard sauce or lamb in a Bordelaise sauce. 2953 Baker St. above Greenwich (415/931-1475). Light breakfast, lunch Tu-F, dinner Tu-Su, late dining M-Sa, brunch Sa-Su. Beer and wine. (H.H.)

Boulevard
$$$. Pat Kuleto's room is striking, but you won't notice it after the rich, spirited food arrives. The quail is invariably excellent. Downtown, 1 Mission, (415/543-6084). (P.A.)

Cafe Claude
$$. In a secluded spot down Claude Lane, this is a French-style cafe with simple but excellent food and jazz in the evenings. 7 Claude Lane in Downtown (415/392-3505). (P.A.)

Chapeau!
$$. A little quaint bistro with exceptional food for not too much money. A few prix-fixe offerings every night, one vegetarian. Richmond, 1408 Clement, (415/750-9787). (P.A.)

Fleur de Lys
$$$. Intense, well-crafted food under the big top, with a healthy twist. Definitely an experience. Nob Hill, 777 Sutter St, (415/673-7779). (P.A.)

Fringale
$$$. Top-notch French-Basque food. The menu is seasonal, but you might find Roquefort ravioli in a creamy sauce; mashed potatoes with duck confit and walnuts, garnished with garlic cloves, or pork braised in wine sauce and cabbage, with spears of wine-poached pears. 570 4th St. above Brannan (415/543-0573). Lunch M-F; dinner, late dining M-Sa. Cocktails, beer and wine. (H.H.)

La Folie
$$$. La Folie is a cheerful bistro with top-notch, inventive, luxurious food courtesy of the highly skilled Roland Passot. Pacific Heights, 2316 Polk St., (415/776-5577). (P.A.)

La Scene
$$$. A civilized place with healthy French cooking. Settle down for rare ahi tuna atop greens, strands of cucumber and red bell pepper, or rib-eye steak with horseradish butter, sweet potato fries and grilled vegetables. 490 Geary St. at Taylor in the Warwick Regis Hotel (415/292-6430). Breakfast, dinner, late dining 7 days. Cocktails, beer and wine. (H.H.)

Le Charm
$$. Relax and order a goat cheese and roasted pepper salad or go straight to a main course of halibut with tomato confit with a sorrel beurre blanc. Dinner for two with wine is about $50. An $18 three-course prix fixe dinner is available. 315 Fifth St. above Folsom (415/546-6128). Lunch M-F, dinner Tu-Sa, brunch Su. Beer and wine. (H.H.)

Plouf!
$$. A house specialty is mussels in a variety of broths. Follow that up with crab cakes and mango salsa or saut&eacue;ed monkfish medallions with pearl onions, bacon and cabbage ragout. A evening for two is $60. 40 Belden Place above Montgomery and between Bush and Pine (415/986-6491). Lunch M-F, dinner M-Sa. Cocktails, beer and wine. (H.H.)

Restaurant LuLu
$$$. This vast but always full restaurant cures meat cravings. Try Lulu's two sisters for a more demure but equally satisfying experience. SoMa, 816 Folsom, (415/495-5775). (P.A.)

South Park Café
$$. Look for duck confit with marinated carrots and a hazelnut vinaigrette or roast duck breast with a honey-lime sauce and green cabbage braised with bacon. Two should get a good dinner for about $65. 108 S. Park above Second St. and Bryant (415/495-7275). Light breakfast, lunch, dinner M-Sa. Beer and wine. (H.H.)


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